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A little History of Diraacs
By Umm Abdullah Sophie Jenkins (owner of diraac.com)
The word diraac comes from the arabic word dira3 (ayn at the end)
which originally meant shield in classical arabic but has come to
mean a diaphanous, wide sheath like dress; which is usually worn
with an underskirt (some yemeni variations have matching or white
trousers worn underneath) and a shawl which is traditionally worn
wrapped around the shoulders; or on the head.
The diraac it appears originated in Yemen; and was possibly brought
to Somalia by a group of people called the Mahrah; a semitic; but
non-Arabic people from Al-Mahrah province in Southern Yemen.
This ethnic group have traditionally travelled back and forth between
Yemen; and Somalia and Kenya. In Somalia they are known as Arab
Salaax (Salih) and are a recognised tribe.
Now the diraac can be found all over Yemen, though it is more
popular in Sana and Aden; as well as in Somalia, Ethiopia, Kenya
and several other East African countries. It is also found in the UAE;
and to an extent Oman but it is not known if this is a recent cultural
import or a more traditional thing.
There are two types of diraac; the house type usually made in
cheap screen-printed rayon challis fabrics in a 36" width, and the
formal type that are made in a variety of occasionwear fabrics and
these days tend to be in a 45" or 60" width.
In the yemeni Arabic
dialect the house type are known as 'Ma3awees'; but in Somali this
word is used for the men's sarongs. In some Somali dialects; such as
the reer xamar; the house ones are known as 'baati', in others
'diraac sheed'. As well as the fabric difference the house variety tend
to be more open from the sides; whereas the formal type are usually
very fitted around the arms. This store specialises in the formal
variety of diraac but the way both types are made is pretty much
the same.
Your typical diraac set consists of a usually sheer overdress (though
not always, opaque satin ones are increasingly popular), a satin
underskirt or full bra slip with a lace or scalloped embroidered trim
on the bottom,and a shawl of some type, usually the shawls are silk
these days but there are variations. Some of the very wide opaque
diraac do not come with a shawl as it is superfluous.
Some diraac sets come with either a shaash which is a bandana worn
by married women and these are usually made in India (though the
concept of married women only covering their hair comes from the
pre-Islamic culture in the region of Somalia and Ethiopia) or a
malqabad which is a filmy rectangular scarf worn by both married
and unmarried women in Yemen and Somalia.
In Yemen a malqabad is traditionally worn either like a bandana;
or draped over the face as a niqab; under a yemeni khimar.
In Somalia it traditionally tended to be worn like a headband;
not covering all of the hair.
It is traditional in both cultures for the formal diraac (and I mean
the dress itself here) to have some 'drag' to it, this is seen as more
elegant and so the diraac can be held with the hand; or tucked in.
I find it more convenient to have quite a long 'drag' as then it stays
tucked in better; but if you don't like to tuck it in it may be more
convenient to have it just about floor length. The underskirt/halfslip,
known as gogorad in Somali; tends to come just under the bust these
days so you can create an empire line look if the diraac is tucked in.
Categories: History, Trends, Tips and Tidbits